Utilla

We arrived in Utilla, Robinson Crusoe's Island, just before mid-night and could hear the town rocking. Utilla's is a diving town with dozens of dive shops to take care of the second biggest reef in the world. Each dive shop has a Hostel, and many have a bar/restaurant. Tourist are from around the world and predominantly young. We spend the next day visiting friends of Larry's and then headed to the western end of the Island where his new house had been built.

The Bay Islands

Anchoring in Guanaja, we were met by Red (Rojo) a native water taxi driver who offered us a ride into town and translation assistance, as the immigration officer spoke no English.

We climbed aboard his boat and headed off away from town and picked up a man, his dog and his young boys. We then headed further out of town towards a bay with a sandy beach. Larry and I were both more than a little concerned, but we let them out then continued further from town. Rojo sensed our concern and told us not to worry, he had one more fare to pick up before we headed to check in with immigration. We picked up a young woman heading into town to party for the night. Her perfume was strong enough to keep the the no-see-ums away at least.

It was a good investment as Rojo convinced the immigration officer that our documents were English "equivalent" documents to what he was looking for. Turns out we probably should have checked out with US customs to receive the documents needed to enter our next port. We headed back to the boat and were asleep before 8 pm, too tired to even eat.

The next morning, we headed into town in the dingy. Guanaja is actually a town on a key just south of the main island. No motor vehicles, bicycles or other wheeled vehicles. The entire island is a fishing community and the support structure for the fishermen. The people were polite, friendly and very happy to be fishermen. We wandered up and down the two main streets (sidewalks) and met Terry Jackson a disabled fisherman. Terry helped us to find lobster, negotiated a great price (less than $1 a pound) and helped us find veggies for our meal. Terry showed us his injured ankle, which appeared to us to me infected and possibly gangrene had set in. Terry offered us women and some Junga he was trying to sell to raise money for the ferry. We told him thanks but we had women enough at home and did not smoke. We tipped him and thanked him for his help. (Terry is in the red shirt pictured with the veggies)

The Guanaja police station is next to the dingy landing in the yellow building pictured. The other end of the building was the jail cell, that opened as a barred door on the street. There was a prisoner inside who chatted with those that stopped by. Primitive but effective from the looks of it.

We returned to the boat and barbecued six lobster tails, which was more than we could handle. We loaded up the fuel cans, ice for the lobster and the next morning departed for the 80 mile sail to Utilla.

Deja' Vu all over again!

I'm a month behind due to poor Internet connections in Honduras and the fact that I left the boat and came home to NC for a visit. Pictures and a map can be found at the link for part one of this trip.

We left Key West January 15Th sailing out to the west through the many sailboats practicing for the annual Key West Race week. We had a repeat of the weather and seas that had caused us to tun around and return to Key West. We expected 15-20 knot wins decreasing to 10-15 at dusk. We got 15-20 winds increasing to 30 knots and seas the US Coast Guard called "very, very rough"! Never heard of that before.

Heavy seas and winds pounded us and with a double reefed main sail and seas on the beam, we plodded west. The winds increased to 35 knots on the 16Th, quite a bit more than the 5-10 forecast we downloaded. We came to appreciate how huge Cuba was, taking until the 17Th to get by and turn south. Heavy Seas and the Gulf Stream caused us to set about 15 degrees off the course he were sailing.

The morning of the 18Th, Larry prepared our first hot meal, egg sandwiches and coffee. We had gone four days on a couple of Salami sandwiches, peanut butter and crackers, oranges and water as it was too rough to try to fire up the stove. The day was interesting, continuous rain squalls with thunder and lightning all day with out warning. The rain reminded me of the monsoon season in Singapore and Malaysia, heavy, heavy rain, then clear and muggy. The squalls swept from the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico across about 100 miles to Cuba. The water temperature was up to 86, so swim suits under our foul weather gear was comfy (finally).

The 19Th and 20Th of January were pleasant days sailing, still with 15-20 knots of wind. We kept a vigil on the water off Mexico as we had heard some sailors had been pursued by boats out of Mexico. With us making 5-7 knots, we needed an early start to out run anything. The nights were incredible, the moon was so huge and bright you could not see stars or planets. A good thing too as the running light crapped out from the pounding they took and the alternate Tri color light on top of the mast worked periodically. (In Utilla Larry hoisted me up the mast and I discovered the mast light had been wired incorrectly and occasionally worked through a "sneak" circuit in the switchboard). The coast of Mexico, Cuba and Central America was very busy with coastal freighters, a few large tankers , huge cargo ships and cruise liners. Very few ever spotted us with sometime as many as six ships around us at once.

21 January was a rough day again with winds in the 20's and rough waters. At midnight the winds were again 30-35, thankfully we decided to double reef again. Larry stayed on the wheel for about 12 hours as I reduced the sails and finally lit off the motor to keep us into the seas. We sailed to the Eastern most island of Guanaja as they were the most experienced immigration and customs office for sailing vessels and easiest to get around (no wheeled vehicles).

the Coch Republic

Surprise, another update and from a Republic other than Honduras! Yesterday at 2 AM, after struggling with 25+ knot wins for 10 hours, the winds increased to 30-35 and a shackle holding the main sheet to the traveler let loose. The seas were only eight feet, but the period between was only about 2 seconds, causing two and three to hit us at the same time. Larry took the helm and held us into the wind and the rest of the crew (me), lassoed the swinging boom, then went on the deck to wrestle the main sail down and tie it to the boom. As I lay on my back, tied to the boom, with waves breaking over the boat and the wind howling, I questioned my interpretation of the word fun. Maybe at 65 I should check out lawn bowling or bridge.



We were closer to Havana than to Key West and fought the seas for 16 hours to get back to Key West. We repaired the traveler, the main sheet blocks, the main sail and added addition reefing capability.



Key West for a few beers and some dead cow tonight and to check out my buddy Big Ern's favorite bar, then back towards Honduras noonish.

80 Degrees and Sunny

Another beautiful day in the Florida Keys! Did some shopping and maintenance and plan on heading out tomorrow. We had a bumpy ride down the coast to Jacksonville, with unfavorable winds, meaning motoring and stopping for fuel. Went in to the waterway and couldn't get out until Fort Pierce as the lock near Port Canaveral was closed for repair. Zipped out finally and after a day of struggling with tuning the boats rigging, we sailed well to Marathon Florida on Key Vaca, 48 miles from Key West.

Had some fun due to the rough seas, sediment shut the engine down three times, first coming in through the breakwater in Jacksonville, second as we were 1/2 way through a bridge that was closing (used the starter moror to get through and dropped anchor) and finally as we crossed past Key Biscane and were fighting the Gulf stream! Larry is an expert at cleaning the fuel system. Hopefully treatment we bought will clear the problem.

Probably will be two or three weeks before the next post. Check out the new link for pictures and our track so far.

Resting in Mayport Florida

Underway Wednesday 29 December from Sloop Point NC. Snow on the ground in shady places, ponds iced over. Launched the boat only to discover the fresh water lines suffered a few breaks. We lost half a day troubleshooting the water system and scooted down the waterway to enter the Ocean at Wrightsville Beach at sunset. Cold clear night, with sunrise finding us in a huge pod of dolphins. Spinning jumps, two jumping at each other from different directions, eight jumping together, 12 hours of entertainment.

Ocean sailing was horrible, light and variable or on the bow. From our un-planned fuel stop in Savannah we sailed two hours, part of it in the wrong directions. We motored down to Florida in choppy seas which stirred up sediment and clogged fuel filters for an exciting entrance to the St Johns River. After a great seafood lunch (and cold beer) we face decision of what to have for supper and do we want to chance an ocean thunderstorm at sea or on the inland waterway tomorrow.

Next stop Cape Canaveral, then Miami, the keys, then wherever!

Still on the Hard

Our plan to launch today was foiled, my buddy Larry called to get in the water and the yard operator was a hundred miles away! So much for call a couple of hours in advance. We did get our provisions and sea bags aboard and stowed (thanks to Larry's wife Tonie). Tomorrow we are scheduled to launch at eight, then head down the Inland waterway to Wrightsville Beach. Spot will be tracking us.

From there, out past Frying Pan Shoals then head ssw to Key West. With favorable winds, about five days, although winds do not look all that favorable. We are both retired so we may add stops along the way.

Photo is Larry, Me and our friend Rich on a sail from Antigua to Newport via Bermuda in 2007.